以11.1 tex(100 D)Coolmax涤纶异型纤维为原料,设计织制了双面素色横向、纵向波纹织物,双面色织横向、纵向波纹织物,以及复合波纹织物,给出织物编织工艺,包括设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式等。所设计的双面横向与纵向波纹织物新颖别致,具有纵向或横向歪斜效应(曲折效应),是制作高档T恤衫、时装的理想面料;而复合波纹织物正面呈现直条外观,凹凸感极强,呈现蛇皮网眼效应。

The paper develops several new kinds of ripple double knitted fabrics by using 11.1 tex (100 D) Coolmax polyester fiber, including plain color horizontal and vertical fabrics, yarn-dyed horizontal and vertical fab-rics and compound fabric. It introduces in detail the knitting technology including equipment parameters, needle ar-rangement, cam arrangement, and threading ways. In addition, the basic technical parameters are given. The results show that the plain color or yarn-dyed horizontal and vertical rippled double fabrics are new and different, with longitudinal or transverse deflection effect (zigzag effect), which are the ideal materials for making high-grade T-shirts and fashion clothing; while the compound rippled fabric can present straight appearance, with strong con-cave-convex feeling, as well as the snakeskin mesh effect.

基于目前国内外经济形势和真丝针织服装企业的生产现状，对新型真丝针织原料的开发及其在纬编产品中的应用进行了探讨。指出新型真丝针织原料的开发主要有3种途径：包括采用大豆蛋白复合纤维、竹纤维等新的纤维材料；改进并捻、织造工艺开发新的纱线；通过缫丝新技术开发柔软生丝、高弹生丝等。在此基础上,采用上述新型纤维材料，设计开发了真丝＋大豆蛋白复合纤维小提花织物、真丝＋竹纤维双面夹层织物、丝涤包缠复合丝粗细双面绸、真丝绉织物和锦纶盖真丝双层绗缝织物，并对其上机工艺等进行论述。对真丝针织企业开发功能性、时装化、个性化的创新产品，提高产品的附加值和经济效益有一定参考作用。

Based on the domestic and international economic situations and production status of silk type knit-ting clothing enterprise, the paper discusses the development of new silk material and its application on weft knit-ted fabric. It points out that the main 3 ways of developing new silk material includes: using soybean protein fiber and bamboo fiber and so on; improving the cabling and spinning technology; developing soft raw silk and high stretch yarn through new reeling technology. Furthermore, the small jacquard fabric (silk+ soybean protein fiber), double sandwich fabric(silk+ bamboo fiber), coarse-fine double silk fabric(silk/polyester covered composite filament) and double quilted fabric (silk crepe fabric and nylon covered silk) are produced by using the new type silk mate-rials. The research can provide some reference for development of functionality, fashion and personalization prod-ucts, and improvement of additional value of product and economic efficiency.

介绍双面电脑提花移圈圆机的主要移圈编织原理和编织方法,并结合编织原理对纬编移圈织物的花式结构可能性进行探讨。列举目前几种常见的具有特殊花式结构的纬编移圈产品,包括:移圈罗纹网眼织物、移圈凹凸织物、移圈孔眼织物、移圈提花调线织物等,对它们采用的基本组织和编织手段进行比较分析。给出新型移圈提花面料的设计思路,即采用新型纤维原料,新颖的组织结构,同时结合特殊的后整理手段获得具有高附加值的产品,并采用移圈技术开发了一款新型纬编移圈提花面料,该面料图案美观大方、线条流畅,具有阻燃效果,适合于开发窗帘、台布等装饰用纺织品。

The loop transfer knitting principle and knitting method of double computer jacquard loop transfer circular machine were introduced in this paper, and the pattern of weft loop transfer fabric was also discussed. Some common products with special fancy structures were listed, including rib transfer of mesh fabric, concave and convex transfer fabric, net fabric transfer, jacquard striped transfer fabric, etc. And the basic structure and knitting methods of them were compared and analyzed. It came up with the design ideas of new jacquard transfer fabric, i.e, using new type fiber materials,new structures and combining with special finishing means to get high value-added products. And a new type of weft loop transfer jacquard fabric is developed by using transfer technology. The fabric bears an aesthetic generous pattern with smooth lines, a flame retardant effect, which is suitable for the curtain, tablecloth, decoration,etc.

介绍新型电子梳栉横移控制经编毛巾机的结构与特点,阐述凹凸提花毛巾、色彩提花毛巾产品的开发思路。详细分析毛圈和平裆组合提花毛巾、高低毛圈组合提花毛巾、单面色彩提花毛巾、双面色彩提花毛巾的制备工艺,包括垫纱组织、穿纱方式、染整工艺流程等。最后对产品开发过程中毛巾织物的尺寸稳定性控制、毛圈高度和形状控制、不同组织送经量控制等问题进行分析,提出相应工艺改进措施,对实际生产具有一定的指导意义。

The structure and characteristics of the new warp knitting towel machine with electronic shogging system were introduced, and the development ideas of concave-convex jacquard towel and color jacquard towel were presented. The process of jacquard towel combined with terry and non-terry, jacquard towel combined with high ter-ry and low terry, color jacquard towel with one side terry, color jacquard towel with two sides terry were described in details, which included lapping movement of guide bar, threading method, dyeing and finishing procedure. Be-sides, some problems during products development were analyzed, which focused on dimensional stability control, loop height and shape control, stitch length, and so on. Furthermore, the improvement measurements with guiding significance to the practical production were put forward.

对甲壳素纤维的物理机械性能进行测试分析,包括形态特征、结晶度、取向度、拉伸性能、摩擦性能、质量比电阻、吸湿性和抗菌性。利用甲壳素、棉混纺纱线(混纺比分别为10∶90和30∶70)在双面大圆机上开发复合组织内衣面料,对编织工艺进行详细介绍,最后对织物的顶破强度、耐磨性、透气性、吸湿性和抗菌性进行性能测试与评价。结果表明:甲壳素纤维结晶度和双折射率低,强度较低,吸湿透气性好;所开发面料具有良好的吸湿和抗菌性能,适合开发高品质功能性内衣面料。

The main physical and mechanical properties of chitin fibers are tested and analyzed, including mor_phology, crystallinity, orientation, tensile properties, frictional performance, mass specific resistance, moisture ab_sorption and antibacterial properties. And according to the testing results, the functional underwear fabrics are de_veloped on the double bed circular knitting machine by using chitin/cotton blended yarns with different blended ra_tios (10:90, 30:70), the knitting process is also described in detail. Finally, the bursting strength, wear-resisting, air permeability, moisture absorption and antibacterial properties of fabrics are tested and evaluated. The results show that the chitin fiber has low crystallinity, birefringence and strength and excellent moisture absorption and air permeability properties; the chitin fiber knitted fabrics bear good moisture absorption and antibacterial properties, which are suitable for developing high-quality functional underwear