经编提花间隔织物是一种三维立体成形织物，一面具有丰富的花纹效应，另一面为平纹或网眼结构。经编提花间隔织物作为文胸面料，不仅服用性能优良，美观时尚，而且可经简单的缝合或模压成形直接制成罩杯。文章围绕经编提花3D文胸面料的设计与开发展开研究，介绍了经编提花3D文胸面料的特点，阐述了该类织物的花型设计和工艺设计方法，结合实例从生产设备、生产原料、组织结构、工艺设计、上机织造和后整理等方面详细说明了3D文胸面料的开发流程。

Warp-knitted jacquard space fabric is a kind of three-dimensional fabric produced on double-needle bed Raschel machine with one jacquard bar. It is composed of upper fabric, lower fabric and interlayer fabric, and one surface is rich in pattern for the jacquard bar’s effect. As brassiere fabrics, warp-knitted jacquard 3D fabrics not only have the characteristics of amenity, beauty, but also can be directly made into brassieres by simple suture or molding. In this paper, the design and development of warp-knitted jacquard 3D brassiere fabrics was researched. Firstly, the characteristics of warp knitted jacquard space fabrics were introduced. Secondly, the pattern design requirements of warp-knitted jacquard spacer brassiere fabrics were explained. Thirdly, the process planning methods of warp-knitted jacquard 3D fabrics for brassiere were described in detail, including knitting machines, the raw materials, stitches, ifnishing and other aspects. Finally, the development proces

介绍经编绒类沙发面料的纹理及其分类，从原料、导纱梳配置、组织结构设计等方面阐述高速特里科经编绒类沙发面料的结构纹理及其形成方法，并总结了纹理设计的技巧。最后列举一款高速特里科4梳提花绒沙发面料的开发工艺，包括设备参数、面料设计参数、原料组成、垫纱数码、穿经方式、送经量等编织工艺及后整理工艺。该研究为在高速特里科经编机上进行绒类提花面料的设计和开发提供参考。

This paper introduced the texture of warp knitted velvet sofa fabrics and their classification , expound-ed the structure texture and its forming methods of high-speed tricot warp knitted velvet sofa fabrics in terms of the aspects of raw materials, arrangements of guide bars and pattern design, then summarized the skills of texture de-sign. Finally it developed a kind of 4-bar high-speed tricot warp knitted jacquard velvet sofa fabric, including the warp knitting technology in terms of equipment parameters, fabric design parameters, raw materials, lapping dia-gram threading ways, warp run-in and post-finishing process. The research results can provide references for the design and development of Jacquard velvet fabrics on high-speed tricot warp knitting machine.

介绍双面电脑提花移圈圆机的主要移圈编织原理和编织方法,并结合编织原理对纬编移圈织物的花式结构可能性进行探讨。列举目前几种常见的具有特殊花式结构的纬编移圈产品,包括:移圈罗纹网眼织物、移圈凹凸织物、移圈孔眼织物、移圈提花调线织物等,对它们采用的基本组织和编织手段进行比较分析。给出新型移圈提花面料的设计思路,即采用新型纤维原料,新颖的组织结构,同时结合特殊的后整理手段获得具有高附加值的产品,并采用移圈技术开发了一款新型纬编移圈提花面料,该面料图案美观大方、线条流畅,具有阻燃效果,适合于开发窗帘、台布等装饰用纺织品。

The loop transfer knitting principle and knitting method of double computer jacquard loop transfer circular machine were introduced in this paper, and the pattern of weft loop transfer fabric was also discussed. Some common products with special fancy structures were listed, including rib transfer of mesh fabric, concave and convex transfer fabric, net fabric transfer, jacquard striped transfer fabric, etc. And the basic structure and knitting methods of them were compared and analyzed. It came up with the design ideas of new jacquard transfer fabric, i.e, using new type fiber materials,new structures and combining with special finishing means to get high value-added products. And a new type of weft loop transfer jacquard fabric is developed by using transfer technology. The fabric bears an aesthetic generous pattern with smooth lines, a flame retardant effect, which is suitable for the curtain, tablecloth, decoration,etc.

介绍美雅碧纤维的基本性能特点,包括纤维直径、抗起毛起球性、保形性等。采用美雅碧与锦纶、羊毛、兔毛的混纺毛型纱(80:10:7:3),在德乐UP472双面拨片小提花机上,开发了一款新型的提花空气层面料。详细介绍面料的编织工艺和染整工艺,包括原料选择、设备参数、意匠图、染整工艺流程、升降温工艺控制等,以及各生产环节的注意事项。给出了面料的基本物理指标,并测试了面料的一些主要性能,包括保暖性、抗起毛起球性、抗静电性。结果表明,利用美雅碧纤维开发的提花空气层保暖面料,具有轻、薄、柔、暖,穿着舒适的特点,为保暖类产品的开发提供参考。

Based on the basic performance characteristics of miyabi including fiber diameter, anti-pilling prop-erties and shape retention properties, the paper develops a new kind of jacquard piquette fabric on UP472 style double jacquard knitting machine by using miyabi/nylon/wool/rabbit hair blended yarn(blending ratio is 80∶10∶7∶3). It introduces in detail the knitting technology including raw material’s selection, equipment parameters and notation, and the dyeing and finishing technology and heating curve control. In addition, the basic technological parameters are given, and the major properties of the fabric are also tested, including warmth retention function, anti pilling properties, and anti-static properties and so on. The results show that the jacquard piquette thermal fabric made in this paper presents excellent properties such as light, thin, soft and warm, as well as wearing comfort properties, which can provide a reference for developing knitted thrmal products.

利用电子单针选针和双沉降片技术,采用167 dtex/48 f本白涤纶低弹丝为地纱,167 dtex/48 f预染涤纶低弹丝为毛圈纱,在MKPL2型电子提花毛圈机上开发了一种高品质汽车用针织提花短毛绒面料。详细介绍编织原理、设备参数、技术要点和面料规格等,指出该面料是以增补上去的"有色毛圈"来构成一个完整的毛圈和地组织横列,形成分布均匀紧密的绒头。并根据织物结构和应用要求,制定较为可行的后整理工艺技术,包括剪毛、阻燃整理、烫光剪毛等工艺,同时对面料进行阻燃性能测试。该面料花型设计新颖,配色和谐,手感柔软,富有弹性,华贵而高雅,耐用且阻燃,在汽车工业应用领域具有良好发展前景。

Based on the electronic single needle selection and dual sinker techniques,the paper develops a new kind of high quality short plush jacquard knitted fabric for cars on MKPL2 style electronic jacquard terry machine by using 167 dtex/48 f white DTY as ground yarn and167 dtex/48 f pre-dyed DTY as terry yarn. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology, equipment parameters, technological points and fabric’s parameters, and points out that the “colored terry” on the fabric constitutes a complete course of pile and ground with even and close pile distribution. In addition, the finishing technology is made according the fabric structure and application require-ments, including shearing, washing and setting, inflaming retarding and so on. The results show that the fabric bears innovative design, harmony color, soft feel, good flexibility and durable and flame resistant properties, which has a good prospect in the application field of the automobile industry.